Thom Browne has become more and more into the urban design and aesthetics of the bike messenger.  Is this a bad thing? Honestly? I think its a great spin and take on Thom’s usual shrunken suit.

“Activewear that is functional and stylish” was his original idea and motto, but just like any show that Thom does the looks are bizarre and so is the presentation.

This time the show was presented by the models walking out to a track, hopping on a bike, and cruising around. A bit of a departure from a runway. The fabrics were blends of lycra with technical pieces that are waterproof. Top off all the looks with a biker’s cap.

You think the hats would’ve said Brooklyn on it? Nah, that would be too New York.

No matter what presentation or look Thom Browne does he always designs some “holy grail” pieces. This year it looks to be the double breasted sportcoat (below).

Now as far as me buying these and cruising around on a fixed gear? Umm…well that’s another story.

* instead of the strauss that plays during the show it would’ve been funny if they played this…(yes that is C&C Music Factory)

Looks below

The other day a lovely box from Thom Browne appeared on my desk from Japan (yes most of his stuff is made in Japan now).

It was a hooded sweatshirt?

Thom Browne does hooded sweatshirts?

For some people that might sound like the worst thing or the best thing they’ve ever heard.

I’m gonna be one of the folks who says its the best thing.

I say its the best thing because designers like Thom Browne are the ones who realize you don’t need to re-invent the wheel, you just need to spin it a bit!

It’s not like he said “Hey let’s make this out of 8 ply cashmere from the McKenna Mill in Scotland!”

It just needed a little twist to make it Thom Browne, and that’s what he did.

Like most of his pieces, the fit is rather close to the body. The fabric is Japanese Supima Cotton, and yes it has just the right amount of obnoxious details a $200 hoody should have.

4 Big Bold stripes, (he used to have 3 but Adidas got a little mad, seriously).

Red, White and Blue drawstrings, and the neck of the hoody goes up a bit more for an “athletic fit”.

I’m not saying you need to buy it, but you should at least see this thing. This is a hoody I’m going to be wearing through the spring and I’m not even much of a hoody guy!

Available at Bergdorf’s, Barney’s, and Thom Browne at 100 Hudson.

Check the Navy too!

The other night I watched the movie Stay (2005) with Ewan McGregor. Its a bit of a thriller about an american psychiatrist in New York…I kept wondering why does his suit look so familiar…Aha!The wardrobe was done and designed by Thom Browne of course. The movie itself was kind of well, not so much my thing. Ryan Gosling was in it and so was Naomi Watts and even Bob Hoskins!

Gosling plays this deranged student who keeps telling people he’s going to kill himself. Ewan is his shrink and is trying to help him and actually starts to get a bit crazy himself. The story unfolds to flashback upon flashback and had quite a good ending. I don’t think the movie was as good as Ewan’s slick wardrobe and apartment though.

I would rent it just to see his apartment and outfits, So put together.

More pics below…

For some more photos check out The Essential Man’s Post on the flick.

I’m not sure what to make of it honestly. Some of the looks are really amazing.

Others are really conservative and well, kind of bland.

Either way, its hard to pick apart Thom Browne stuff. To me he’s kind of like Thom Yorke of Radiohead.

Whatever he does I still like it and respect because its Thom and you know he’s thinking of something you’re not getting yet.

Yeah I had to do it…

I’m not trying to be a hater but I guess I just want something that does a bit more for me. Ever since all the suits moved from Caruso to Southwick, the quality has plummeted. They still look great, but rarely are any of the jackets fully canvassed (they used to be). The fabrics aren’t as nice. I want more magic!

I’m loyal to Thom though and can’t deny that some of these looks are so spot on.

These were some of my favorites

How do they hold up?

Quality?

Is it worth the money?

These are going to be the points I’ll be discussing in today’s post…

The infamous “click clack” of the Thom Browne wingtip. The only shoes I’ve ever owned with actual metal taps.

What are taps you ask?

They are small pieces of plastic (or in this case metal) that go on the heel and/or the toe of a shoe. They keep you leather soled shoes from wearing down so quickly. Kind of an essential if you’re a New Yorker because you’re walking around so much!

FYI – I purchased these shoes at the 100 Hudson St location in the spring of ’08 – so i’ve had these about 2 years.

When I first got them I wore them almost every day as how could you not?! I’ve worn these through a a few rainstorms some snow and yes even through mud (that took a while to clean off)

A few things I want to point out are they are very heavy. I mean heavy, I think my calves have gotten bigger wearing these. They are just solid as a rock.

Also for these shoes I want to take into account that I polished them every other week and always kept the lasted trees in them when I wasn’t wearing them

So…

How do they hold up? 9/10

A new shoe

Mine

These shoes hold up beautifully!

As you can see , the taps have worn down a bit and there’s some wear on the sides  (above). I might replace the taps next year, not sure though yet.

Look at how thick that sole is!

Bit of wear on the toe

There are a few (hidden) scratches in the leather but I’ve kept them pretty covered up with polish. Thank goodness its scotch grain, that also helps too.

Made in England

Scratches here and there

Quality? 10/10

Beautiful Welt

These shoes were bench made in Northampton, England by Trickers. There is a reason they have a Royal Warrant y’know. The leather is sourced from France, the stitching on the welt is impeccable and the broguing is perfect. A beautiful quality shoe.

Is it worth the money? 4/10

Sadly these shoes are insanely expensive, around $1,250!

That’s way too much, I was barely able to afford them and that was with the credit I used at the store. If I had to pay retail for these out of my pocket I would flip.

Don’t get me wrong they are BEAUTIFUL shoes, absolutely amazing quality but its just too much for me.

A good pair of shoes should run you around $350-550 depending on what you get (cordovan etc). Lasted shoe trees (shoe trees made from the last the shoe was made off of) will run you around $100. So where is the rest of the mark up?

OH! There it is!

So if you got the money to throw down on an insanely nice pair of wingtips go for it!

Otherwise, my future is nothing more than Mark McNairy and Alden.